Pearl Quality by Pearl Luster

If you are planning to buy pearl jewelry for your wife, girlfriend, mother, etc., and don't know where to start this guide is for you.

In general, there is no internationally recognized standard for grading pearls or pearl quality other than "natural" or "cultured". Cultured pearls gain a helping hand by man so that a pearl has a reasonable chance of being harvested. Natural pearls occur naturally, where a foreign body (often a parasite) has entered an oyster (pearl host) and the oyster using a secretion (nacre) attempts to protect itself. The natural occurring process is completely random and most often pearls are never found thus extremely rare, and extremely expensive.

Pearl quality is often reported on the selling website as a means to demonstrate and distinguish that seller's pearls from other sellers. (Tip: if not available avoid buying from a seller that doesn't suggest their pearl quality). Pearl quality is most often reported on an "A" scale which suggests pearl smoothness, shape and potential flaws in the pearls being sold.

Pearls - Pearl Scale

AAAA - Exceptional quality and very expensive. No notable imperfections

AAA - Superb quality and often the best buy for the money. While some imperfections exist - often unnoticeable to the untrained eye.

AA - Fair quality - but notable imperfections

A - Lowest quality - often these pearls are used in "non-jewelry" related items such as: nick-knacks and ornaments.

It should be noted that Mikimoto originally adopted the "pearl scale" and subsequently other pearl sellers and pearl producing regions adopted their own - but none are recognized by any jewelry governance agency.

However the seller labels their pearls and no matter what scale they use the follow criteria remains constant.

Pearls are graded according to size, shape, luster (lustre), color, overtones, and rarity and evenly match pearls in a strand is ultimately the best buy a consumer can make.

Pearl Quality Judging Criteria

Luster - the pearls should have a high luster (shininess), orient (iridescence-looks like a circular rainbow on the pearl), and the more expensive.

Graded as high luster, medium luster, low luster and very low luster.

Color (Overtones)- in white pearls it is personal choice but rose is usually preferred, this is affected by something called overtone (powder on a woman's face).

Common overtone colors-rose, silver, blue and green. Blue being the rarest rose being the most common. More rose the more value, more green lower value. In black pearls overtone is usually green or pink.

Colors (Body Color) are rose, white, cream, yellow or gold and gray (for saltwater cultured). So, when we describe a pearl's color we are talking about the combination of body color and overtone. A white-rose pearl would be white in body color with a rose overtone as would be silver-white (silver overtone) or blue-gray (blue overtone).

The colored freshwater pearls, these are judged by the depth of color that we see and intense lavender will have more value than a lighter shade (unless of course it is a larger size, the rarity plays in)

Surface Appearance - Freedom from blemishes, cracks, spots, blotches, "orange peel" effect. Graded as clean to heavily blemished.

Shape - Rounder the more expensive. Can be defined as round, semi-round, off round, oval to baroque, (baroque -- must have an interesting shape) for example: a pear or a tadpole not just an out of round pearl).

Size - Most popular sizes in salt water cultured are 4.6mm to 6mm. The larger -- more expensive, and true for all pearls.

Nacre Thickness - Is judged by looking at the bead hole and as a rule you can see the separation between nucleus and nacre. Thickness ranges from very thick at least .5mm, medium .35mm to very thin at .25mm. This is judged on a basis of the ratio of the nacre to the bead. If a pearl has a high luster, uniform iridescence it usually has thick nacre. If the pearl is chalky and dull it is usually thin.

Rarity - Matched pearls.

Perfect Cultured Pearls Selection for Your Loved Ones

Obviously personal preference is the best match but some general guidelines to assist when preference isn't known.

Fair skin - Cream color or rose and other overtone shades and pink pearls.

Dark skin (or darker skin) - Deeper colors black pearls, or green

White pearls are good for any skin tone.

Pearl Luster

A faint hue that is apparent in the color of the pearl(s) often rose, pink or green (green normally in black pearls)

Pearl Necklace Lengths

Strand length is more appropriate to consider with the normal wearing patterns of the person, occasions and wardrobe.

Collar (12-13") Normally wore with V-neck or off-shoulder tops and dresses.

Choker (14-16") Similar to a collar yet more versatile and wore more loosely on the neck.

Princess (17-19") Almost anything and any neckline, from cocktail dresses, business suits to knit sweaters, crew neck tops, a T-shirt and jeans, high necklines and as well as low ones. Likely your best choice.

Matinee (20-24") Business suit or a dress. Suited for semi-formal occasions.

Opera (28-34") Best suited for formal engagements in evening dresses.

Rope (+45") A bit of all of the above - the length can be shorten by double or triple wrap around.

Pearl Necklaces Styles

On average most women prefer single strands - but some people like double or more.

Pearl Types: Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, Freshwater

Although there are various types I highly recommend China Freshwater Pearls as these tend to be less expensive than Akoya (Japan), Tahitian (French Polynesia Atolls), and South Sea (e.g. Australia) thus giving a bit more flexibility to your other concerns (particularly length - as longer tend to be more expensive than shorter).

Where to Buy Pearl Jewellery

While any pearl retail outlet that notes specifics on the pearls they carry will do, Pearl Luster offers outstanding quality at exceptional prices. Please check and see for yourself!